Tuesday 29 March 2011

Tommy Hilfiger : Indie Prep

At New York Fashion Week Tommy Hilfiger unvieled a new Autumn menswear collection "Indie Prep". It seems that he has tried to infuse his classic preppy style with the attitude of indie music.  The collection's foundation is a selection of smart separates. The overall silhouette has been narrowed and the tailoring is leaner. The focal point is outerwear motorcycle jackets, toggle coats, bomber jackets and macs. Trousers include  cargo, slim-fit, slouched or tracksuit pants. No skinny? Detailing is military with regimental stripes, armbands and lapel pins playing against, colored sweaters, pinstripes, flannel suits, and oversized waffle stitch cardigans. The colour pallete has a lot of air-force blue and burgundy which is offset with pops of colour and greys. The looks are topped off with hats, sun glasses, loafers, boat shoes and fabric ties.

The result however is not authentic. As far as the "Indie" in "Indie Prep" is concerned the collection doesn't deliver. When we think of Indie we think of boys in bands, we think leather jackets, skinny jeans, scruffy hair, a somewhat disheveled look. We think of the skinny silhouette of designers like Hedi Slimane. Looking at the images from this collection we see the preppy look of Tommy Hilfiger made "indie" by some sunglasses, models with long hair and some hats. There is a lack of commitment to what sounds a great idea on paper. The "Prep" part is right, how could it not be it's Tommy Hilfiger. However the "Indie" appears only as an after thought. Which is a pity as there are two bands in particular who are making this look work. The Drums, New York's latest band to be hyped to sky scraper levels mix varsity jackets, college sweaters, Wayfairer Raybans and Converse to great effect, perfectly mixing the edgy and scruffy elements of Indie with Preppy neatness and colour. Vampire Weekend also pull off the same trick, maybe in a more understated way. If Hilfiger wants this to be the new "Indie Uniform" he needs to look to bands like these and kids on the street for the authenticity this collection is lacking.

Indie Prep by Tommy Hilfiger
Indie Prep by Tommy Hilfige
The Drums
Vampire Weekend

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